Rice recipes around the world are shaped by their growing regions, regional traditions, migration and trade, as much as by taste, mingling with ingredients found in abundance in their places of origin. Risotto rice, for instance, reflects the wet plains of northern Italy; rice pilaf follows the Silk Road, while the tahdig rice dish turns the bottom of the pot into a mark of hospitality, and kedgeree is a colonial-era adaptation of India's khichdi. The grain is the same, but the cooking technique differs, that are a reflection of their respective cultures. This article takes you through how different cultures treat one rice dish that travelled, changed names and produced something familiar yet so different.
Rice recipes will make any rice lover’s ears perk up when the same grain that does not taste like much, unless you prepare the aromatic rice varieties, is transformed into flavour-packed dishes like the risotto (often dubbed the Indian khichdi), pilaf (the mother of the Indian pulao) and kedgeree (an adaptation of khichdi with eggs and fish). As to why rice dishes vary so much, it all has to do with the local traditions, geography and cooking techniques in place.
Roughly 500 years ago, rice was domesticated in India and southern China, and Arab traders later carried it to Sicily and Spain. Cooks in each new place fitted it to their own water, fuel, ingredients and occasions. With time, two cooking processes came out of this: one treated rice as a whole, grainy thing, where the grains were cooked in a way or a variety of rice used, so that each grain remained separate and fluffy, like in pilaf and Persian rice. This involved the rice being washed multiple times to get rid of the surface starch, which stopped grains from clumping. The other version keeps the grain as is, so the starch helps the rice dish turn creamy, like in a risotto.
The surprising part about the rice dishes in Italy is that rice is not native to the country. If written records were to be seen, the first documented Italian rice cultivation dates to 1475 in Lombardy, and the crop then spread to the marshy Po Valley. The risotto recipe is younger than the grain. A recipe recognisable as risotto alla milanese appears in an 1809 cookbook, and a popular legend credits a glassmaker's apprentice who added saffron spice, a stained-glass pigment, to a wedding feast. Milan treats saffron risotto (risotto giallo) as its own, much as Rome claims Amatriciana (a pasta sauce).
The choice of risotto rice is also important, and usually Carnaroli, a medium-grained rice grown in the northern regions of Italy, is used. This particular rice grain is hard to overcook into mush, and it is also preferred by most Italian chefs because it keeps its shape as the released starch turns into a creamy sauce in the risotto. Arborio has larger grains with less bite, and Vialone Nano rice suits soupier versions. The method of making has three parts:
Softening onion in butter until translucent, then adding the rice and toasting it for one to two minutes.
Add white wine and stir until absorbed, then add warm broth gradually, stirring until nearly absorbed each time.
The risotto is then taken off the heat, and cold butter and Parmesan are stirred in.
The origin of pilaf is debated, with most accounts tracing its roots back to Mesopotamia and ancient Persia, and it spread along the Silk Road to Central Asia, the Middle East and India. The Turkish word pilav is borrowed from the Persian polow, and Ottoman expansion carried the dish through the Balkans and Mediterranean. Mughal courts developed it into the Indian pulao and biryani traditions, and Indian pulao blooms whole spices in ghee before the basmati rice goes in.
In Central Asia, the dish is called plov or osh, and in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan it symbolises hospitality and is cooked in large quantities for weddings and communal feasts. It is traditionally made with lamb, yellow carrots or turnips, and rice in a cauldron called a qazan over open fire, and UNESCO has recognised it as intangible cultural heritage. The core of any rice pilaf is that the grains cook in seasoned fat and measured stock until the liquid is absorbed. That is the opposite of risotto, where constant stirring pulls starch out of the grain.
Tahdig means the bottom of the pot in Farsi, with tah meaning bottom and dig meaning pot. It is made deliberately, with fat and steady heat producing a crisp, toasted crust under the soft rice. A Persian cook's reputation rests first on producing perfect fluffy rice and a good tahdig. Cooks par-boil the rice and then steam it over saffron-infused butter. The pot is flipped onto a platter like a cake. Bread, potato slices or a yoghurt-and-saffron mix can replace rice as the crust, and hosts often serve it proudly, with families competing for the first piece.
Paella and jollof rice are among the richest and most wholesome rice recipes that are packed with flavour, ingredients and spice, and a filling one-pot rice dish, which in their areas of origin symbolises the spirit of community.
The Moors first grew rice in the Albufera wetlands near Valencia in the eighth century. Farmers and labourers later cooked whatever they had, such as rabbit, duck, snails and seasonal vegetables, in a wide shallow pan over an open fire. The toasty crust at the bottom of the pan is called socarrat, and cooks judge it by sound and by the feel of a spoon. The dish is traditionally eaten communally, with each person eating from their own section of the pan.
Jollof rice was probably first cooked in the 14th-century Wolof Empire, and it grew out of thieboudienne, a dish of rice cooked with fish, shellfish and vegetables. Tomatoes reached Africa from the Americas in the 16th century and changed the recipe into the tomato-based dish known today. It is prepared for celebrations, and the friendly ‘jollof wars’ over the best version are a matter of regional pride. UNESCO has listed Senegal's ceebu jën as intangible cultural heritage.
Tahdig and socarrat are a clear parallel. Two cultures separated by thousands of kilometres both treat the toasted bottom layer as the best part.
Khichdi is one of India's oldest dishes, and its name comes from the Sanskrit ‘khicca’, meaning a mixture of rice and lentils, and the earliest references appear in the Mahabharata as well. Ibn Battuta, a Maghrebi traveller and scholar, described a rice-and-mung-bean dish called kishri around 1350, and the Ain-i-Akbari, written for Emperor Akbar, gives seven variations.
The path to kedgeree is not well documented and is inferred, with food historian Lizzie Collingham noting that khichdi was a soothing breakfast dish, and the British already liked eggs and fresh fish in the morning. The lentils eventually dropped out, the name shifted from khichdi to kidgeri to kedgeree, and the dish came back to Britain with returning officials, soldiers and traders. The first known written instructions come from a diary started in 1790 by Scottish woman Stephana Malcolm. Smoked haddock from Findon near Aberdeen suited the dish, as improving stagecoach links carried it further, and parsley replaced most of the Indian spices.
Factor |
Khichdi |
Kedgeree |
Core ingredients |
Rice and lentils, often moong |
Rice, smoked fish, boiled egg |
Fat |
Ghee |
Butter or cream |
Flavouring |
Cumin, ginger, turmeric and other spices |
Parsley, mild curry powder, lemon |
Texture |
Porridge-like to loose |
Loose grains with flaked fish |
When it's eaten |
Any meal, festival offerings, first food for babies |
Breakfast, brunch |
The shared thread is a one-pot meal built from what is at hand, and it gets adapted as it moves. Khichdi is also commonly considered the inspiration for Egypt's kushari.
In India, the dish carries more cultural weight than kedgeree ever did. It is considered one of the first solid foods babies eat. In West Bengal, bhoger khichuri is served at Durga Puja pandals, and the niramish version uses sona moong dal, Gobindobhog rice and vegetables, with no onion or garlic. Khichdi is also cooked for Makar Sankranti and Pongal. Rajasthan, where rice is not a staple, makes it with bajra or whole wheat, and Parsi kitchens add fried Bombay duck in Bharuchi vaghareli khichdi.
Ingredients
½ cup rice
½ cup split yellow moong dal (washed together)
1 tbsp ghee
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp turmeric
A pinch of asafoetida
Salt
3 cups water
Method:
Temper cumin and asafoetida in ghee, add the rice, dal, turmeric, salt and water, and pressure cook for 3-4 whistles. Add hot water if it thickens.
South India might not have anything that spells out khichdi per se, but there are several one-pot rice recipes that are made with rice, spices and a mix of ingredients that flavour the entire dish. Pulihora, puliyogare, puliyodarai (tamarind rice), mango rice (mamidikaya pulihora) and chitranna (lemon rice) belong to the same tempered-rice family, with their tanginess coming from tamarind, mango, and lemon, respectively. There’s also tomato rice, curd rice and coconut rice, all of which take on the flavours of the dominant ingredient; khichdi tastes like a mix of dal and rice. Many of these rice dishes are also offered as prasadam at temples and can be packed for long-distance journeys or lunchboxes. Tirupati and Srirangam are known for their puliyodharai. Homes make it for festivals such as Ugadi, Varalakshmi Vratham and Diwali.
Dish |
Origin |
Method |
Cultural role |
Risotto |
Lombardy and Piedmont, Italy |
Toast, add hot stock gradually, finish with butter and cheese |
Northern Italian comfort food |
Rice pilaf or plov |
Persia, Central Asia |
Cook in stock until absorbed |
Hospitality, weddings, celebrations |
Tahdig |
Iran |
Par-boil, then steam over fat to form a crust |
Mark of a cook's skill |
Paella |
Valencia, Spain |
Wide pan over open fire, no stirring |
Communal Sunday meals |
Jollof |
West Africa |
Rice cooked in a tomato base |
Celebrations, regional pride |
Khichdi |
India |
Rice and lentils cooked together |
Everyday food, festival offerings |
Kedgeree |
Anglo-Indian, Britain |
Rice with smoked fish and eggs |
Colonial-era breakfast |
Variety rice |
South India |
Cooked rice mixed with tempering |
Temple prasadam, festivals |
Khichdi: the simplest entry point, using only rice, dal and tempering.
Rice pilaf: toast whole spices in ghee, add washed basmati and measured stock or water, and cook covered.
Lemon rice: temper mustard seeds, curry leaves and peanuts, then toss with cooked, cooled rice.
Potato tahdig: slice potato thinly, lay it in oil at the bottom of a non-stick pot, add par-boiled rice on top and steam.
Risotto: use Arborio or Carnaroli from speciality stores, since regular long-grain rice will not turn creamy.
Every one of these rice recipes answers the same question of providing sustenance, like many other grains and vegetables grown in different lands. Trade routes also came into play as rice reached foreign shores, as did spices and other cooking techniques and ingredients. Risotto rice rewards patience, tahdig rice rewards skill, and paella rice and jollof rice reward company. Khichdi and its offshoot kedgeree show that a dish keeps changing as it crosses borders.
Carnaroli and Arborio are both Italian risotto rices, but Carnaroli has firmer grains and more amylose, while Arborio releases starch readily, creating creaminess but becoming softer during cooking.