Nolen Gur, the locally produced sweetener derived from date palms, is used heavily in many of Kolkata's winter cakes (sandesh, rosogolla) to enhance the taste of these familiar desserts with a richness that is characteristic of this time of the year. In Chennai, famous winter sweets include ghee-based desserts like jangiri and Mysore Pak and fried delicacies dripping with syrup.
During the months of winter in India, we not only welcome the opportunity to wear warmer clothing but also enjoy hot chai in the evenings. While both cities are far apart, Kolkata and Chennai are renowned for their respective dessert traditions. As soon as Nolen Gur becomes available each year, Kolkata bakers begin experimenting with different ways to incorporate it into traditional desserts, producing lots of exciting results. Similarly, although the base ingredients used to make the popular South Indian desserts are typically limited to a few specific ingredients, the flavour combinations found in jangiri and Mysore pak are endless and, therefore, provide many creative options to help make our special occasions sweeter and keep us cheerful. If you're planning on visiting Kolkata or Chennai for the upcoming holidays, you'll be in for a real treat.
Wintertime in Kolkata is marked by Nolen Gur Sandesh, an ultra-sweet and decadent dessert that utilises the fresh, pressed date palm jaggery (Nolen Gur) to make a seasonal version of the traditional Bengali Chhena sweets. The jaggery gives the Sandesh a rich, deep amber hue and a caramel-like aroma. In all, Nolen Gur Sandesh is a true winter treat for all those who visit during the season.
In addition to Nolen Gur Sandesh, there is another very popular wintertime treat called Nolen Gur Rosogolla. This is the classic Bengali sweet of spongy cheese balls that have been soaked in syrup made from Nolen Gur, instead of the traditional sugar syrup. The rich and smoky flavour of the Nolen Gur transforms these much-loved sweets into a warm and comforting dessert that provides warmth and sweetness to the cold winter months.
These thin crepes made of rice flour are filled with sweet jaggery, fresh coconut, and/or rich Kheer (rice pudding). These sweets are traditionally eaten in the wintertime and during festival celebrations such as Makar Sankranti, and their warm filling and soft, delicate exterior make them an ideal complement to afternoon tea or to serve as dessert after dinner.
Enjoying a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, Joynagarer Moas are a winter treat with an intricate flavour profile that combines the deep frying of urad dal with cane sugar syrup and the addition of dry fruits and nuts. The unique combination of crunchy texture and delicious taste captures both Kolkata's glorious history of making sweets in winter, as well as the use of aromatic rice.
The Jangiri is a spiral-shaped sweet that is very popular in Chennai. This jiggly, multi-coloured dessert is created by taking urad dal batter, deep-frying it, and soaking it in a sweet, syrupy mixture. The fact that it takes on such vibrant colours makes it an appealing and festive treat to eat at any time, especially during celebrations or at temple festivals.
Although Mysore Pak is originally from Mysore, this type of sweet has found a home within Chennai's vibrant sweet culture. In addition to being rich and buttery due to the use of ghee, Mysore Pak has a crispy outside and a soft interior that glides smoothly on the palate. Therefore, no dessert trail through the city of Chennai would be complete without a sampling of this delicious treat.
Badusha is another traditional South Indian sweet that is common in both Chennai and Mysore. Badusha's exterior is slightly crunchy, while its soft, syrupy centre makes it an excellent dessert to eat after a meal or a gift to someone during a celebration.
Sweets that are prepared, such as Kasi Halwa and many other varieties of halwa that are typically made using white pumpkin, lentils, or semolina, have become synonymous with their rich texture and sweetness. During the winter months, these desserts provide a warm and pleasing experience that complements a cup of filter coffee or warm tea.
Although Kolkata and Chennai are different in terms of language and climate, they share many similarities when it comes to the relationship of sweets with their respective cultures and seasonal celebrations. While Kolkata's use of nolen gur offers local roots to the city's winter dessert, Chennai's collection of syrup-soaked and ghee-based treats reflects South Indian culture and festivals. Each city will satisfy your craving for sweetness, whether it be the rich smokiness of nolen gur or chewy treats like Jangiri and Mysore Pak.