The food culture of Uttarakhand (Pahari) is based on a limited number of items (millets and pulses), slow-cooking techniques developed to keep perishable items fresh for winter months, and tools designed to provide the region's residents with food for extended periods of time during long winters.
Because of where people live and what type of product is available in their area, cooking in the high-altitude region of Uttarakhand (Pahari) requires a different level of skill. Pahari cuisine is developed to use available ingredients and create delicious meals using the least amount of available time and effort on the part of the cook. This article examines how cooking techniques and the craft of creating good-quality Pahari food are a reflection of the region and its people. The enduring nature of Pahari cuisine is a testament to the vast range of flavour and creativity that is incorporated into this unique way of living in the mountains.
Pahari cuisine requires a person living in the mountains to provide the necessary nutrients to the body, as well as the required amount of sustenance to support a person throughout the winter months. Because the winter season in many areas of Uttarakhand can last for several months, transportation is difficult, and fresh fruits/vegetables are often difficult to find. Therefore, Pahari cuisine is based heavily on items that are readily available and consistently produced at all times (i.e., mandua/finger millet, jhangora/barnyard millet, gahat/horse gram, and bhatt/black soybean) and hardy green vegetables (i.e., lingda, kaafal) that have dependent cycles of production and harvesting as a part of their growing cycle.
For generations, millets were fed to people as their main staples. On an elevated plane, however, as the region's first superfoods gain global popularity, people have turned to mandua roti to achieve peak physical and mental performance. Made from ground millet flour, mandua roti have an exceedingly dense and earthy profile; therefore, they support people who spend more time travelling on foot than by vehicle. Jhangora has also served as the base of traditional comfort bowls, namely, kheer and assorted savoury (or sweet) porridge-based meals; these grains are also enjoyed at high altitudes, as they are quick-cooking and excellent sources of steady, sustained energy for people who work or exercise in extreme cold weather.
Furthermore, the flattop of the Himalayas has the outdoor and camping community covered when cooking meals with a Bhatti by using traditional methods; no modern-day appliance will replicate the smoky flavour found in meals prepared with a Bhatti. Chainsoo, for instance, which is a dish made of roasted black gram curry, offers a level of appeal achieved by the combination of the Bhatti method of heating and cooking with the ingredients therein. In addition to the charology of the ingredients within, they will also enhance the overall flavour of a dish.
In the mountains, the boiling point of water is lower, making it harder to soften foods such as rice or dal because of the way they are cooked (with boiling water) versus using dry heat. Therefore, local cooks developed their recipes according to how they used boiling water to cook their food. Long cooking times are beneficial for both horse gram (gahat) and black soybean (bhatt). The long cooking time allows for these dense grains to turn creamy and nutty. Long cooking times for these grains also allow them to become soft and easily digestible in cold climates. The preparation of food in the mountain kitchen is done at a slow pace because of the high altitude.
During periods of heavy snowfall when supply routes are blocked, dried foods become the most important thing to have in a person’s pantry. Drying is one of the oldest methods of preserving food. For example, many green leafy vegetables, such as kandali (stinging nettle) and other greens, are dried in the sun and then stored for use in soups, pumpkin is dried and used in strips for long-term storage, and even tomatoes can be dried for use in winter stews. Lentils can be cooked and ground into flour to improve their taste and shelf life (see Chainsoo and Kafuli). Furthermore, nothing is wasted; everything is repurposed with a high degree of efficiency.
High elevation roasting is paramount for enhancing aroma. The majority of dal is roasted before preparation, and thus, the essential characteristics of Pahari food are its unique roasted earthiness. Fermented dishes like jholi also provide tanginess and acidity, along with nutritional benefits, without the use of tomatoes (which are difficult to grow during the winter months). Additionally, fermentation promotes digestive health and helps acclimate to temperature changes; Pahari foods are designed to help the body adapt through intelligent food choices rather than forcing it to work extra hard.
Pahari food isn't ostentatious; it doesn't depend upon the use of layered spices or complex cooking methods. Pahari food is a type of clean and uncomplicated comfort food. Most dishes contain fewer than seven ingredients. The taste of Pahari food comes from the location, from the fire, and from the seasonal climate. A bowl of Pahari food—whether it be curry, flatbread, or chutney—represents the land where it originated.