Delhi's winter transforms its streets into a culinary wonderland where centuries-old recipes meet the chill in the air. From the cloud-like Daulat ki Chaat that appears only at dawn to the hearty warmth of nihari and gajar ka halwa, the capital's winter street food scene is legendary. This guide explores eight essential winter delicacies that have warmed Delhi's heart for generations.
As fog blankets the narrow lanes of Purani Dilli and winter settles over the capital, Delhi's street food undergoes a magical transformation. While the usual classics of chole bhature and jabeli with rabri reign, there are a handful of street foods that charm their way into the hearts of locals. So, when the mood for something namkeen or sweet hits, and you reluctantly leave the comfort of your shawl or blanket, try the classics listed below, dotting the lanes and bylanes of Delhi. These are traditions passed down through generations, with recipes perfected over centuries, and flavours that define what locals affectionately call ‘Dilli ki Sardi’.
Walk the lanes of Purani Dilli or Old Delhi, and you will find vendors selling a big mound of thick and white delicacy during winter. It’s daulat ki chaat, a melt-in-your-mouth delicacy that is quite relished for its milky flavours and light and refreshing taste. It was introduced to Delhi by a farmer from Moradabad called Khemchand Adesh Kumar. It starts with raw milk mixed with cream and cooled overnight over an ice slab, then a portion is hand-whisked until frothy. This mixture is mixed with khoya and chenna and served in clay cups or ‘donas’, topped with more khoya and a pinch of saffron.
Many North Indian homes, across the country, make this dessert when red carrots are in season, in winter. But gajar ka halwa is available at street food stalls too. This quintessential winter dessert is made from grated carrots, slow-cooked for hours in pure desi ghee and milk until the moisture vanishes. The result is a rich and fragrant halwa heavily laced with khoya and dry fruits. Served piping hot, it's pure soul-satisfying comfort. Some of Delhi's most legendary spots for gajar ka halwa include Chaina Ram Sindhi Confectioners in Chandni Chowk and Shyam Sweets in Chawri Bazaar.
This legendary Mughlai dish makes for an extremely hearty winter street food in Delhi. Nihari is a slow-cooked stew prepared from succulent meat – traditionally buffalo or goat – simmered for hours with a blend of spices until the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender. The dish is then layered with a red-hued, flavour-rich oil that floats on top. Derived from the Arabic word ‘nahaar’, meaning morning, this dish has been a popular breakfast item since the time of the Mughals. In the bylanes of Old Delhi, it's still devoured as the first meal of the day, accompanied by khameeri rotis that perfectly soak up the gravy.
Typically made from maida, kachori takes on special significance during Delhi winters. Depending on where they're served, different fillings such as moong dal or spiced urad dal are stuffed in the kachori. To experience good kachori, a visit to Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala near Chandni Chowk Metro, and Fateh Chand Ki Kachori in Civil Lines, is a must. Their spicy kachoris are crushed and served in potato gravy, bursting with just the right kind of tanginess that makes you want another bite even when it's too spicy for the tongue. Common accompaniments include mint or tamarind chutneys and hot adrak chai.
The aroma of roasting sweet potatoes in the air announces winter in Delhi like few other streets food. This is one of Delhi's signature winter street foods, where the sweet potatoes are roasted over charcoal until their skin is charred and the inside is soft and sweet. Vendors then peel them on the spot, cut them into cubes, and toss them with chaat masala, cumin powder, black salt, and lemon juice. You'll find shakarkandi vendors with their thelas (carts) at popular spots like Lodhi Gardens, Bishan Swaroop Chaat Corner, and in Chandni Chowk's lanes.
When asked what their favourite dish is, chole bhature is often the first street food that Delhiites will mention, and it becomes even more comforting during the winter months. This indulgent dish features the spicy chana masala (chole) with fluffy, deep-fried bhature, making for a hearty meal. The bhature in Delhi is far bigger than versions found elsewhere in India, and it's not just plain fried dough – the batter is prepared at least twelve hours in advance so it can ferment. It is then fried right before serving. Places like Sitaram Diwan Chand in Paharganj serve one of the most authentic versions of this dish.
Momos may have originated in Nepal and Tibet, but they are just as loved by Delhi, if not more so. On a cold winter's day, nothing hits the spot better than a plate of jhol momos, which are quite filling. Delhi has put its own spin on momos, serving them with a fiery red chutney made from chillies, garlic, Sichuan pepper, and tomatoes. Tandoori momos have also become hugely popular. For the best momos in Delhi, head to areas like Majnu Ka Tila (the Tibetan colony), Lajpat Nagar, where Dolma Aunty's stall is legendary, or the student havens of Kamla Nagar and Satya Niketan.
No winter in Delhi is complete without the sight and taste of fresh, hot jalebis. The expertise starts with the fermented batter, which has to be thick enough to hold its shape but fluid enough to be piped into the characteristic spiral pattern. They are fried till golden, and immediately dunked in sugar syrup. They may also be served with a side of thick, sweet rabri. The best jalebis in Delhi are found at Old Famous Jalebi Wala in Dariba Kalan, Chandni Chowk, where they've been making jalebi in desi ghee since 1884, cooking them over a coal fire. Other places include Bikaner, for thinner jalebis, and local vendors in areas like Rajouri Garden (Sharma Jalebi Bhandar).
Winter in Delhi changes flavours, and the dishes warm the soul—each bite tells a story of centuries-old recipes and local traditions. A little disruption from getting cosy under the blanket is not an issue when these foods await, with their mouthwatering smells shrouded in the winter fog of Delhi.