Fish recipes built on the Portuguese bacalhau, which is a dried, salted cod, are central to Portuguese identity. The country has a love affair with this pungent-smelling dried fish, which supposedly has 365 different dishes, one for each day of the year. The most surprising part when it comes to bacalhau is that its main ingredient, the cod, is not caught off Portugal's coast. It comes from Norway and Iceland and is preserved through an ancient technique of salting and drying. It also carries an Indian connection.
Not to be confused with the fusion Goan prawn balchao pickle, bacalhau might be seafood-based and also linked with the Portuguese, but that’s where their similarities end. Bacalhau (pronounced bah-kah-lyow) is the Portuguese word for cod, but in everyday use, it always means dried and salted cod, not fresh. In Spain, they call it Bacalao, and in Italy, Bacala. When meat was considered prohibited during the Christian period of Lent, in these three countries, Bacalhau used to become a staple.
The northern region of Spain, Pais Vasco, boasts of being the first to cure cod, but it is said that it was the Vikings who crossed the ocean to Newfoundland in the 12th century who were behind the curing process. They hung out freshly caught cod in the harsh winter air until the fish turned as thin and lightweight as plywood.
It has earned the nickname of ‘fiel amigo’, or faithful friend, being a part of Portuguese cuisine for the longest time. The curing also helps the fish retain its ingredients. In the era of Vikings, refrigeration was absent, and the curing process also made the strongly flavoured fish quite palatable.
Portugal colonised Goa from 1510 to 1961, and the culinary overlap runs deep. The most visible legacies are the use of vinegar in cooking (central to Goan dishes like vindaloo), pork preparations, and the broader Catholic food culture among the Goan Christian community. The Pork Vindaloo, which is a signature dish from the region, is also said to have had Portuguese origins from ‘Carne de vinha d'alhos’, meaning ‘meat with vinegar and garlic’.
Bacalhau itself appears in Goan Catholic homes, though it is rare. Bacalhau is not available in Goa, so if you have relatives abroad, you can ask them to add a few packs to their list of goodies when they come down. Those who do make it often follow a simple preparation: soaked and flaked cod cooked with onions, tomatoes, green peppers, potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, and olive oil, which is the Goan adaptation of the Portuguese original.
Using vinegar for many Goan dishes is a hallmark of Portuguese influence in the region, right around the time bacalhau was slowly rising to popularity. Dried fish preservation also has deep roots in coastal India. Local ingredients and fiery flavour are central to Portuguese cuisine, whose echoes can also be felt in Goa, where the Portuguese influences shine the most.
After preparing the bacalhau, you can try some of the most famed Portuguese fish recipes. Some feature eggs and some potatoes for some simple dishes. Here are some popular bacalhau dishes.
If Indians have their pakoras, the Portuguese have their pastéis de bacalhau made with the cured cod. Patties are made with bacalhau or salt cod, mashed potatoes, onion, and fresh parsley and are deep-fried. This is one of those Portuguese fish recipes which are the ultimate comfort food for many locals.
In Lisbon taverns, shoestring potatoes and onions are suspended in beaten eggs, which cook into a creamy consistency with heaps of bacalhau flakes inside them. The concoction is folded over low heat, just enough to bind everything without fully scrambling.
This is potato gratin, whose name literally means ‘Bacalhau with cream’. Flaked fish is combined with fried potatoes and onions, then submerged in a thick béchamel made with milk and cream before baking. The oven turns everything into a unified, rich mass, in all its cheesy, bubbly and gooey glory. This is quite an indulgent dish that makes the salty bacalhau quite palatable.
This dish is the one in the cover picture of the article, which is a traditional Portuguese baked dish. The bacalhau is first soaked in cold water and then simmered to remove excess salt and make it tender and flaky. Then the fish is added to a mix of sliced boiled potatoes tossed with sautéed onions. The mixture is then baked and served with parsley, olives, and hard-boiled egg slices.
This dish can be made with fresh cod fillets or even Bacalhau. This dish also goes by the name of Bacalhau no forno and is a classic Portuguese dish of roasted salted cod generously coated in olive oil and typically served with potatoes, onions, and garlic. The term ‘à Lagareiro’ refers to olive oil mill workers, linking the dish to early olive harvest traditions and the use of freshly pressed olive oil.
Bacalhau connects centuries of history away from the coasts of Portugal, and like the explorers that they are, Vikings, whose roots are in the Scandinavian countries, kicked off the curing trend, and that was how Bacalhau was born. Combined with Portuguese maritime history, Catholic beliefs and a pitstop at the coastal kitchens in Goa, bacalhau is a cherish ingredients used in many dishes.