Kolkata's Sweet Story: Beyond Rasgulla And

Sandesh

Sarbhaja

A disappearing sweet, sarbhaja, from Krishnanagar, is made by deep-frying layers of milk cream (sar) and chhena, bound with wheat flour and sugar. Its name means ‘fried cream’, reflecting its preparation method. The sweet dates back to at least the 15th century and is mentioned in the ancient Bengali text, Chaitanya Charitamrita. Sarbhaja is quite addictive as it’s almost like a toasted marshmallow but made with dairy. This sweet is cherished for its rustic flavour and handmade artisanal preparation, rooted in centuries-old Bengali culinary traditions.

Talshash

A traditional Bengali sweet originating from the region of Nadia, the name ‘talshash’ is symbolic of the sweet fruit of the palm tree (called nungu or ice apple). This Bengali sweet is shaped exactly like the fruit. It is made with chhena (cottage cheese) and gets the name of jalbhora sandesh when it has a hollow centre with rose water or the seasonal nolen gur. Talshash surges in popularity during the winter months when the date palm jaggery is in season and is often associated with festive occasions.

Kanchagolla

This Bengali sweet has a short shelf life and tastes best when eaten fresh. ‘Kancha’ refers to raw, and ‘golla’ means balls. Fresh chhena (cottage cheese) is kneaded into smooth balls and served as is, or with dry fruits. Originating from Natore in Bangladesh, it is said to have been created by Madhusudan Das, who accidentally discovered the sweet when trying to prevent curdled milk from going to waste. The sweet gained popularity after Queen Bhabani of Natore tasted it and recommended it to other royals.

Sitabhog And Mihidana

Two different sweets with the same roots, sitabhog and mihidana, are BFFs. They hail from Bardhaman, but look and taste quite different. Sitabhog, made with chhena and rice flour, is made to resemble a sweetened rice dish dotted with tiny, brownish chenna pellets soaked in sugar syrup. The chenna pellets may be replaced with raisins. 

As for mihidana, it is made with tiny boondi, similar to what goes into motichoor laddoo. It was created by Bhairab Chandra Nag, who attempted to make boondi, but mihidana is what ended up being made. Sitabhog was also made by him and served to the Viceroy Lord Curzon in 1904 to mark his visit. These ghee-rich sweets are usually served together since then. Both sweets have also received Geographical Indication status, recognising their regional uniqueness.

Chom Chom

Chom chom (also spelt cham cham) is a popular Bengali sweet originating from Porabari, Bangladesh. It is made from chhena (cottage cheese) and flour, flavoured with cardamom, and often rolled in coconut flakes or mawa (reduced milk). The sweet is typically oval-shaped and comes in various colours, including light pink, light yellow, and white. Cham Cham is popular during festivals and special occasions and is known for its moist texture and sweet syrup dripping from the oval sweet.

A Mishti Mozaic Of Countless Choices

These sweets are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Bengal. Zip through the entirety of Bengal, beyond Kolkata, and you will find more regional varieties that are associated with legacy sweetmeat shop owners and the ordinary man who just loves mishti making.