Kolkata's Sweet Story: Beyond Rasgulla And

Sandesh

Quick Summary

This one’s for those with a serious case of sweet tooth! Going beyond rosogolla, Kolkata has sweet gems to sample, from Krishnanagar’s sarbhaja and Shaktigarh’s lyangcha, to Bhim Nag’s ledikeni in Kolkata. Each sweet has a backstory, a birthplace, and a flavour that time nearly forgot. 

Deep Dive

Sandesh, rosogolla, and mishti doi are synonymous with the ‘mishtiness’ of Kolkata, and steeped not just in syrup, but in its rich history. But beyond these popular choices are regional favourites that locals love, some fading in and out of popularity, and some almost lost in the echoes of time. Some are dripping in the seasonal nolen gur (liquid date palm jaggery), and the other in sugar syrups. Here’s a tour of some enduring and some almost forgotten favourites that define the dessert-scape of Kolkata.

Lyangcha

Known for coming in a variety of sizes, from as small as 5cm to larger ones, lyangcha or langcha is a deep-fried cylindrical sweet that originated in Burdwan, West Bengal. Traditionally prepared from khoya (mawa), it is now prepared with milk powder and flour, deep-fried, and soaked in sugar syrup. Khudiram Dutta, a sweetmaker from Kalna, Burdwan, is the man behind this sweet. He had a limp (lyangra, meaning crippled in Bengali), which is how the sweet got its name. This dish owes its origin to the pregnancy cravings of the princess of the Burdwan royal family, who was married into the Krishnanagar royal family. 

Ledikeni

Named after Lady Canning, wife of the British Governor-General Charles Canning (1856-62), Ledikeni is believed to have been created in her honour by Bhim Chandra Nag in Kolkata. Some versions suggest it was prepared for her birthday or to commemorate her visit in 1856. The sweet gained popularity as Lady Canning reportedly developed a fondness for it. It’s made from chhena (cottage cheese), khoya, and refined flour. The mixture is shaped into cylinders or rounds and deep-fried until reddish-brown, then soaked in sugar syrup.

Sarbhaja

A disappearing sweet, sarbhaja, from Krishnanagar, is made by deep-frying layers of milk cream (sar) and chhena, bound with wheat flour and sugar. Its name means ‘fried cream’, reflecting its preparation method. The sweet dates back to at least the 15th century and is mentioned in the ancient Bengali text, Chaitanya Charitamrita. Sarbhaja is quite addictive as it’s almost like a toasted marshmallow but made with dairy. This sweet is cherished for its rustic flavour and handmade artisanal preparation, rooted in centuries-old Bengali culinary traditions.

Talshash

A traditional Bengali sweet originating from the region of Nadia, the name ‘talshash’ is symbolic of the sweet fruit of the palm tree (called nungu or ice apple). This Bengali sweet is shaped exactly like the fruit. It is made with chhena (cottage cheese) and gets the name of jalbhora sandesh when it has a hollow centre with rose water or the seasonal nolen gur. Talshash surges in popularity during the winter months when the date palm jaggery is in season and is often associated with festive occasions.

Kanchagolla

This Bengali sweet has a short shelf life and tastes best when eaten fresh. ‘Kancha’ refers to raw, and ‘golla’ means balls. Fresh chhena (cottage cheese) is kneaded into smooth balls and served as is, or with dry fruits. Originating from Natore in Bangladesh, it is said to have been created by Madhusudan Das, who accidentally discovered the sweet when trying to prevent curdled milk from going to waste. The sweet gained popularity after Queen Bhabani of Natore tasted it and recommended it to other royals.

Sitabhog And Mihidana

Two different sweets with the same roots, sitabhog and mihidana, are BFFs. They hail from Bardhaman, but look and taste quite different. Sitabhog, made with chhena and rice flour, is made to resemble a sweetened rice dish dotted with tiny, brownish chenna pellets soaked in sugar syrup. The chenna pellets may be replaced with raisins. 

As for mihidana, it is made with tiny boondi, similar to what goes into motichoor laddoo. It was created by Bhairab Chandra Nag, who attempted to make boondi, but mihidana is what ended up being made. Sitabhog was also made by him and served to the Viceroy Lord Curzon in 1904 to mark his visit. These ghee-rich sweets are usually served together since then. Both sweets have also received Geographical Indication status, recognising their regional uniqueness.

Chom Chom

Chom chom (also spelt cham cham) is a popular Bengali sweet originating from Porabari, Bangladesh. It is made from chhena (cottage cheese) and flour, flavoured with cardamom, and often rolled in coconut flakes or mawa (reduced milk). The sweet is typically oval-shaped and comes in various colours, including light pink, light yellow, and white. Cham Cham is popular during festivals and special occasions and is known for its moist texture and sweet syrup dripping from the oval sweet.

A Mishti Mozaic Of Countless Choices

These sweets are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Bengal. Zip through the entirety of Bengal, beyond Kolkata, and you will find more regional varieties that are associated with legacy sweetmeat shop owners and the ordinary man who just loves mishti making.