Not using spices the right way is like that ad where SRK is a cricketer while MS Dhoni is a superstar. This swap is as ridiculous as using whole spices in water and sprinkling ground spices in hot oil. It just does not work. So why do whole spices go in tadka, whereas the powdered spices go into a bubbling liquid?
When considering the addition of spices to food, oil often comes to mind, but that is not always the case. Some spices release their flavours into water but burn when added to crackling hot oil. This is a classic case of the form of the spices, with whole spices requiring oil and ground spices requiring water. So what exactly drives this? Why do some recipes say to temper spices in hot oil and then add the masalas later on? Read on to find out.
Many spices contain volatile oils (essential oils) that are prized to add flavour to ordinary dishes (the spice trade happened because of this). These oils are often fat‑soluble – they dissolve in oil but not well in water. Whereas some flavour compounds are water‑soluble (or partially so), meaning they release into broths or water during simmering. Then comes the way the spices are presented – ground spices have much higher surface area, which makes volatile oils more exposed to heat and air, meaning they can evaporate or degrade faster.
Whole spices such as peppercorns, cardamom, and cinnamon (seeds, pods, sticks) contain oils trapped in their cellular structures. Heating them in oil (tempering or tadka) helps rupture cells and release those oils. Oil acts as a ‘carrier’ for fat‑soluble flavour molecules. Tempering with whole spices in hot oil is thus common in Indian cooking. The technique, called tadka aur chaunk, is used either at the beginning or at the end of cooking to add an impeccable aroma. The order matters here – the oil heats up, then whole spices are added so they splutter and release aroma before other ingredients. If oil is not heated properly, or spices are added late, the full flavour may not develop.
Ground spices are more likely to burn if directly exposed to hot oil because their smaller particles and exposed volatile compounds heat up and degrade quickly. Adding liquids (water, broth, tomato, curd, etc.) buffers the heat, so they get added later. The moisture helps distribute heat more uniformly and helps dissolve water‑soluble flavour compounds. This also reduces the chance of burning. Many recipes call for ground spices to be added after introducing liquids or when the oil is not as hot as it was at the beginning. This ensures they release flavour without turning bitter.
Overheating oil or keeping the flame too high causes whole or ground spices to burn, which can result in bitterness and ruin the entire recipe. Fresh spices are your best bet (ground ones especially), otherwise it leads to weaker flavour and quicker burning because volatile components have already deteriorated. Not watching the pan carefully might also mess up your spices. As for whole spices, they will burn if left too long in very hot oil. Ground spices burn even faster. Adding ground spices too early, before moisture or liquid has been added while cooking, or before reducing the heat, will also ruin the dish.
Indian cooking, especially curries, sabzis, and dals, uses a lot of whole spices like cumin seeds, mustard seeds, and dried red chillies. These are added to the hot oil at the beginning. Panch phoron in Bengali cooking is a good example.
Hop over to Indonesia and Malaysia, where cooks make fresh spice pastes (rempah or bumbu) from grinding whole or partially toasted spices, garlic, and onion. The paste is first fried (in oil) before adding proteins or liquids to the cooking.
While not the same as spice powders, many Latin cuisines sauté garlic, onion, and peppers in oil to form a base, often with whole or chopped aromatics, then later add spice powders with liquids. This allows the base flavours to develop without burning delicate ground spices.
The baharat spice blend used in Middle Eastern dishes combines both ground and whole spices – like cumin, coriander, peppercorns, and cardamom. Traditional preparations use whole spices, which are often toasted in a dry pan or in oil, then freshly ground and mixed with other powdered spices. This enhances their aroma before mixing into rice, meats, or stews.
Whole spices, given their unprocessed and unground nature, last longer than ground ones. The ground spices, on the other hand, given their powdered form, are more susceptible to getting damaged by moisture absorption if not stored well.
Ground spices are slower to lose their volatile oils, but it’s still faster than whole spices. Once the volatile oils are gone or oxidised, the flavour released is weak, and they are more prone to burning. Whole dried spices retain their strengths for up to two years, while ground spices last for about six months (depending on storage).
The next time you’re at the stove, consider not just what spices you use, but how and when you add them. Understanding the chemistry and cooking logic behind this can make the difference between a flat dish and one that has a complex aroma and flavour.