In the middle of Mumbai, where the smell of street food mixes with the sea air, there is a population that is less well-known yet has strong roots: the East Indians of Maharashtra. Their rich and colourful food is a tale of celebration, adaptability, and perseverance. One such dish is Chicken Sambari, also known as Khuddi Curry, a meal that brings people together over shared food and conversation. Easter is a perfect time to celebrate with this chicken recipe.
If you want to know what Chicken Sambari is, you have to know the East Indians. The Roman Catholic residents of Salsette, Bassein, Thane and Bombay have a lineage that predates the British Raj. They claimed to be the "original" sons of the land and used the appellation "East Indian" to differentiate themselves from Catholics from Goa and Mangalore in the nineteenth century, when they were under the British East India Company. Their food is a hearty blend of Portuguese tastes with indigenous Marathi ingredients, and it's an interesting bucket of history.
In this blog, we explore the flavours of chicken Sambari, also known as Khuddi Curry, which features a spice blend that can include up to 30 spices, famously known as Bottle Masala. This dish stands as a centrepiece of East Indian festive tables, particularly during Easter.
To any East Indian cook, Bottle Masala is the "hero" ingredient. This has traditionally been part of a larger communal ceremony that includes cleaning, sun-drying, roasting, and then taking up to thirty different spices to a nearby mill to be ground into powder. The masala is traditionally kept in repurposed whisky or beer bottles because of the small neck and tinted glass, which shield it from sunlight and extend its shelf life.
Though modern families still depend on mills, it remains a sign of legacy, a taste of celebration, and a taste of memories. The smoky, subtle heat it imparts is unmatched by any store-bought curry powder, and it is the spice that gives Chicken Khuddi (Sambari) its vitality.
In essence, one can describe the tradition as:
A seasonal ritual tied to the pre-monsoon months.
Spices are sun-dried, roasted, and pounded in wooden or stone mortars.
Stored in reused beer or whiskey bottles.
Once a communal summer activity, it is now often outsourced to mills.
People often serve it during Easter.
Here is a traditional recipe for Chicken Sambari to make your own version of this popular East Indian dish. You can't go wrong with this rendition for a special occasion, like Easter lunch.
Ingredients:
1 kg chicken, cut into curry pieces
2 large potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 tbsp East Indian bottle masala (find at local stores or online)
1 cup grated coconut
2 large onions, sliced
2-3 green chillies, slit
1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
1 tbsp ghee
2 tbsp oil
1 tbsp tamarind pulp
Salt to taste
Water as needed
Fresh coriander, chopped
Optional: a sprig of curry leaves
Steps:
Make the masala by toasting the shredded coconut in a skillet until it becomes golden. After it has cooled, create a paste by grinding it with some ginger, green chillies, and water.
Heat the oil in a large wok or saucepan, then add the chicken pieces. Add turmeric and red chilli powder, along with the chicken, and mix well. The chicken should be gently browned after about 5 minutes of sautéing.
Cook the diced tomatoes until they are mushy, then add the masala. Add the bottle masala and powdered coconut paste and mix well. Coat the chicken with the masala by mixing well.
Simmer with the vinegar or tamarind pulp, salt, and about 1 cup of water. Cover and simmer on low heat for 30–40 minutes, stirring regularly, until the chicken is cooked through and the curry has thickened and released its aroma.
One last thing: top it all off with some fresh coriander.
Serve Chicken Sambari with:
Steaming rice
Traditional East Indian bread, known as fugias
Rumali roti
While hosting a sumptuous Easter feast for loved ones, consider including Chicken Sambari or Khuddi Curry. The thing that makes it special is:
Bottle Masala: An iconic spice combination, Bottle Masala can include as many as thirty different ingredients. It is sun-dried and hand-pounded throughout the summer, then stored in a bottle for year-round use. It gives East Indian food its signature deep, multi-layered taste.
Creamy, Comforting Base: A wonderful way to break the Lenten fast, this creamy and fragrant curry is made by grinding roasted coconut, onions and green chillies into a smooth paste. It feels both warm and festive.
Tangy Balance: To cut through the rich curry and add festive flavours, a little tamarind pulp or vinegar gives them a zesty brightness.
Simmering potatoes: A characteristic East Indian touch, the potatoes soak up the masala and provide substantial warmth as they simmer with the chicken.
Ghee and oil: Chicken Sambari is ideal for Easter celebrations because of the rich, decadent flavour that results from its use.
The spirit of an East Indian kitchen lives in Chicken Sambari, a dish that is both joyful and resourceful, steeped in tradition. Foods like Sambari serve as a constant reminder of the many groups that have subtly moulded Mumbai into its modern identity. So, not only during Easter but anytime you're in the mood to try something different, this chicken curry, with its special masala, will take you to a less well-known but no less exciting part of the city's food scene.
The East Indians are a distinct Catholic group with deep roots in Mumbai. To set them apart from Catholic migrants from Goa and Mangalore, the British gave them the appellation "East Indians."