Jute is integral to Bengal’s economy, and aside from non-edible, retted jute products, the plant itself is harvested to make special dishes. The dishes are made from tender jute leaves before summer completely sets in. Bengali homes make a shaak out of it in various preparations, on its own or adding one or more ingredients, cooked in mustard oil and spices.
The jute plant (Corchorus olitorius and Corchorus capsularis) has a history in Bengal that stretches back thousands of years. Jute has been cultivated in the Indian subcontinent for at least 3,000 years. But before jute became an industry, it was food. The tender leaves of the young jute plant are plucked before the stalks have matured, and have been eaten in Bengali homes in much the same way as other seasonal greens.
The leaves appear in summer markets and last through the monsoon, when the plant thrives and is found in abundance. Only the youngest leaves are chosen for cooking; older leaves turn woody and unpleasant. The midrib is removed before cooking, and only the tender leaf portion is used. In many Bangal households, families with roots in East Bengal and Bangladesh, it is their connection to their roots.
Nutritionally, paat shaak contains iron, protein, calcium, folate, beta-carotene, vitamins A, C, and E, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, and dietary fibre. They contain over 32 documented vitamins, minerals, and trace elements. The anti-inflammatory compounds in jute leaves are thought to have beneficial effects on digestion, and the leaf is considered good for digestive health, appropriate given that it appears in Bengali summer recipes precisely when the body needs light, easily digestible food.
It is rarely found in restaurants. The new generation in urban Bengal is often unfamiliar with it. It remains almost entirely restricted to homes, cooked by mothers and grandmothers with hand-me-down knowledge from their ancestors who made the best of seasonal eating.
Paat shaak has a unique flavour that goes well with many evergreen and seasonal ingredients that pop up in summer. For example, dried, mature jackfruit seeds are added to the shaak preparation.
This is the most basic shaak preparation in Bengali homes when it comes to paat shaak. Bhaja means stir-fry or dry-fry, and this is exactly what it is. Tender jute leaves are fried in mustard oil with the simplest possible seasoning. Different homes have different preparations.
Ingredients:
Jute leaves (paat shaak), chopped: 3 cups
Mustard oil: 3 tbsp
Bori (dried lentil dumplings): 4
Dry red chillies: 3
Nigella seeds: 1 tsp
Garlic cloves, crushed: 4
Onion, sliced: 1
Turmeric powder: 1/2 tsp
Salt: to taste
Method:
Use fresh jute shoots and pick only the tender leaves (bori). More mature leaves will yield a fibrous dish. Chop the leaves (optional) after washing them thoroughly.
Take a pan or kadhai, and heat some mustard oil in it. Fry the bori until it changes colour, don’t exceed a light brown shade or it’ll burn. Remove from the kadhai and set aside.
In the same oil, add the ‘phoron’ by adding the dry red chillies and nigella seeds. Sauté for a while.
Then add the garlic and sauté again until it's golden. Add the onion and fry until they are caramelised.
Add the chopped jute leaves, salt and turmeric powder. Mix while stir-frying, on a low flame, until done. Serve with rice.
Another simple shaak recipe, if you consider the multitude of summer recipes in the Bengali repertoire, is paat shaak er jhol. It is close to the dry version but with gravy, which tends to be slimy because of the jute leaves. There are two versions of this Bengali recipe.
Niramish Paat Shaak er Jhol
Niramish refers to the vegetarian preparation of any dish. Paat shaak er jhol, when vegetarian, uses garlic, onions, and the strong flavour of mustard oil.
Ingredients:
Jute leaves (paat shaak): 1 bunch
Garlic, chopped: 4 cloves
Onion, chopped: 1
Whole mustard seeds: 1 tsp
Salt: as needed
Turmeric: 1/2 tsp
Oil: 2 tsp
Aamish Paat Shaak er Jhol
Aamish refers to non-vegetarian, and this Bengali recipe of paat shaag er jhol introduced prawns or shrimps to upgrade the entire dish.
Ingredients:
Jute leaves (paat shaak): 1 bowl
Green chillies: 2
Prawns (shrimp): 6
Nigella seeds: 1/2 tsp
Dry red chilli: 1
Turmeric powder: 1/2 tsp
Salt: to taste
Oil: 2 tbsp
Garlic cloves: 3
Instructions:
First, use salt and turmeric to marinate the prawns; just 10 minutes is enough, then fry them.
Make sure to have the jute leaves separated and that you have not picked the older leaves for the best texture. Boil the jute leaves with salt, turmeric, and a little water. Keep the water.
Heat oil in a kadhai, then add the nigella seeds, dry red chilli, and crush the garlic and add to the sizzling mix. Once the aroma is released, add the boiled leaves to the water. Add green chillies and prawns.
Let it boil for a bit, taste and adjust the salt, then remove from heat and serve with steamed rice.
Dal is one of the evergreen recipes of the Indian kitchen. Add paat shaak in the mix, and have another Bengali recipe to add to your summer recipes to try list.
Ingredients:
Jute leaves (paat shaak): 1 bunch
Masoor dal: 1 cup
Onion, chopped: 1/3 cup
Garlic, chopped: 1 tbsp
Salt: 1 tsp
Turmeric: 1/2 tsp
Green chillies: 3
Oil: 2 tbsp
Water: 2 cups (as needed)
Instructions:
Separate and wash the leaves thoroughly. Wash the lentils, then cook with about 3 cups of water, turmeric, green chillies, salt, and chopped onion for 10 minutes.
Once the dal boils, add the leaves and cook for 2 minutes. In another pan, heat oil and fry chopped garlic until brown, then pour the dal into the pan. Cover and cook for 1 minute.
Garnish as desired and serve the paat shaak dal with rice.
Paat shaak is one of the many summer recipes in Bengali homes, something you will not find in restaurants. It’s one of the leafy greens that many dieticians and wellness coaches harp on, but for good reason. Shaak or saag is good for you, especially when in season. So, if in Bengal, grab a bunch of tender jute leaves and add these dishes to your Bengali recipe spread for lunch or dinner.