If Bollywood ever made a proper food biopic set in Punjab, Amritsar’s paratha dhabas would be its opening montage with sizzling tawas, clouds of steam, sounds of steel plates clanging, and servers rushing around. Amritsari dhabas are the kinds of places where post-darshan pilgrims eat shoulder-to-shoulder with backpackers, where food vloggers chase nostalgia, and locals argue over which dhaba does it best.
Parathas are a Punjabi favourite, so come winter, when the temperatures dip between 4°C and 21°C, in Amritsar, it’s the perfect time to indulge in this ghee or butter-slathered comfort food. The Golden City transforms into a food lover's paradise between December and February, when morning mist hangs over its narrow lanes dotted with dhabas. While aloo paratha is an enduring favourite, during winters the seasonal Mooli paratha stands out as a favourite, closely followed by gobi, palak and methi paratha. So, what does this city have to offer in terms of paratha? Here’s a tour.
In Amritsar, kulchas might be the centre of attention, but parathas also deserve the spotlight. They are a ritual steeped in history, ghee and generosity. Long before café culture and fusion menus arrived, these dhabas were feeding travellers, freedom fighters, traders and pilgrims, and continue to do so.
Location: Chowk Passian, Near Telephone Exchange, Passian
The holy grail for dhaba enthusiasts, Kesar Da Dhaba was founded in 1916 by Lala Kesar Mal in Sheikhupura before relocating to Amritsar post-Partition. This iconic dhaba once served freedom fighter Lala Lajpat Rai. Here, parathas reach your table piping hot, straight from the kitchen, smothered in desi ghee. Try their aloo parathas or plain parathas with a side dish of the slow-cooked maa ki daal. You could also opt for their paratha thali, which includes two parathas, butter-topped dal fry, chhole and raita – the portion size is generous. Hail a rickshaw and travel narrow lanes to reach this dhaba; arrive early or be prepared to wait.
Location: Near Town Hall, Hall Bazaar
A celebrated establishment for vegetarian offerings, where traditional sarson da saag with makki di roti stands out as an authentic winter delicacy. They serve flaky lachcha parathas topped with ghee and served with creamy dal, chhole masala and raita. They are also known for their aloo paratha made with desi ghee. Winter specialities also include gobi paratha with cauliflower filling and palak paneer. Located a kilometre away from the Golden Temple, the eatery serves parathas with a variety of stuffings, served with a side of chhole, curd and raw onion-tomato chutney. Don't forget to order hot tea to wash down the meal.
Location: Hall Bazaar, Near Golden Temple
This century-old establishment serves stuffed parathas with generous portions and traditional cooking methods, located close to Jallianwala Bagh. Bade Bhai Ka Brothers Dhaba, like most of the local joints, is known for their Amristsari kulcha, but its parathas are also delicious. The parathas, especially their lachhedar parathas, have just the right flaky structure, served in ample portions. The tawa parathas and stuffed parathas are equally appetising, served with a side of the rich dal makhani. The dhaba is within walking distance of the Golden Temple. Visitors praise this place for its delicious and world-famous parathas and dishes at reasonable rates, food quality and fast service.
Location: Bazar Bikaneria, Near Golden Temple
Though best known locally for Amritsari kulchas, Bhai Kulwant Singh Kulchian Wale is an iconic hole-in-the-wall spot near the temple that serves them hot and crisp with a generous smear of butter or ghee, paired with chole and chutney. The usual lineup includes different kinds of kulchas with aloo, gobi, mixed, paneer, and speciality pithi kulchas. Then you have your aloo parathas and gobi parathas, all of which are especially loved with hot chai during winters. The sides include the typical chana masala, dal makhani and chutney with chopped onions and chillies. Mornings are the best time to visit after being at the Gurudwara.
Location: Lakshmanser Road, near ISKCON Temple
The name says it all; it was founded by a pehelwan or wrestler named Atmaram Ji several decades ago, around the 1950’s, and today is run by the fourth generation of the founder. This place is said to be the centre of the iconic kulcha, which was fashioned after the Peshwari khameeri roti. Pehalwan Kulcha has been serving hot, crispy kulchas and also stuffed parathas paired with chole and chutney. Both are beloved breakfast or brunch stops for locals and visitors alike, and tend to be packed.
Traditional dhabas remain remarkably affordable, and none of these dhabas are upscale establishments; they usually sell out and shut shop by noon. Here’s a breakdown of the prices.
Prices at century-old establishments like Kesar Da Dhaba and Bharawan Da Dhaba are slightly higher but still excellent value. Also, the historic dhabas cluster around the Golden Temple and Hall Bazaar area. Many sit in narrow lanes where cars can't reach.
Park at designated areas near the Golden Temple complex and either walk through the bustling markets (10-15 minutes) or take a cycle rickshaw. The rickshaw ride through old city lanes, dodging pedestrians and street vendors, is part of the experience.
There's something magical about sitting at a century-old dhaba on a foggy winter morning in Amritsar with the wafting aroma of ghee and spices in the air. When the paratha arrives with a puddle of ghee or butter over it, your senses take off on a pilgrimage of sorts from tearing off a piece, using it to scoop up some dal makhani, chana or saag, and the relish of that first bite.
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