India caught the eye of the wandering colonisers for a reason; it was a land abundant with spices, which is no less valuable than gold. Meet the ‘black gold’, aka black pepper, which ruled ancient spice routes and was worth its weight in gold. It was sought after not only for adding flavour to any dish, but also for its ability to preserve food. There is one place in India where black pepper’s journey started, before it caused a tectonic shift in the way the world cooks.
The history of black pepper begins on the Malabar Coast or Kerala, whose lush green landscape is the perfect place for black pepper, owing to its rain-drenched stretch of land. Black pepper’s scientific name is Piper nigrum, a flowering vine that produces peppercorns, native to this region, where it has been cultivated for at least 2000 BC.
The pepper vine thrives in its humid tropical climate and laterite soil, growing as a climbing plant that requires a support tree, typically the silver oak or coconut palm, to reach its full height of four to five metres. The plant produces small drupes, and the berries known as peppercorns are harvested at different stages of ripeness to produce black, white, or green pepper. Black pepper is made from unripe green berries that are cooked and then sun-dried, which activates black pepper’s heat and pungency.
Before it reached elsewhere, pepper’s popularity spread across India and was widely traded across Asia. Egyptian merchants were trading for Indian pepper by at least 1213 BCE, and the spice appears in several Egyptian medical papyri as a treatment for digestive conditions and as an embalming agent. Peppercorns were discovered stuffed into the nostrils and belly of Ramesses II, the most powerful pharaoh of the New Kingdom, who was buried alongside other valuables in his tomb.
The Romans and Greeks were also crazy about pepper, with the spice as dear as silver when it came to their weight. At the height of the Roman Empire, black pepper was among the most prized commodities arriving in Rome from the East, imported in huge quantities. Roman cookbook Apicius (1st century AD) is a compilation of recipes featuring black pepper in their sauces, wines, and meats. This spice craze drove the spice trade between India and the Mediterranean.
After the fall of Rome in the 5th-6th centuries, black pepper continued to be rare thanks to the difficulty in transporting the spice to Europe. The black pepper made a pitstop at Middle Eastern markets, then reached European shores, which were further away.
Arab merchants took over around the 7th century, and to gain a monopoly, they spread rumours that Indian pepper was cultivated in a valley infested with snakes. To make it even more believable, they sprinkled some garam masala into the tale (like adding tadka) and said pepper vines were burned to get rid of snakes, and hence peppercorns were black.
This made Europe desperate to shake off the monopoly of the Arab powers over black pepper, and European powers launched sea expeditions to find a route to India that would not be dependent on the Arabs. This kicked off the age of exploration.
Before getting into the age of exploration, it needs to be seen why the craze for the ‘black gold’ existed. In medieval Europe, black pepper became crucial as a preservative agent for food, enhancing flavour and also as a medicine. It was so prized that in places like the United Kingdom, nobles used the spice to pay rent, taxes, and dowries.
Traders and guild members known as ‘pepperers’ dominated Britain as well, with the first London Guild of Pepperers (1180) becoming powerful in trade regulation and pricing, influencing early systems that shaped the European economy. Fun fact: the pepperers are where the British surname, Pepper, came from.
At its peak, a pound of pepper was so costly that it could equal several days’ wages for skilled workers, making it one of the most expensive commodities in Europe. The phrase ‘peppercorn rent’ survives today as a legal relic of its once-currency value.
Now comes the age of exploration. The demand for black pepper refused to cease in Europe, and the Ottoman control of Middle Eastern land routes to get pepper made it a costly affair. The only feasible option was sea routes. Portugal led the race with Bartolomeu Dias successfully setting sail in 1487 and navigating Africa's southern tip.
Just a decade later, in 1498, Vasco da Gama reached Calicut on India’s Malabar Coast, now Kerala, connecting Europe directly to India. Then came Chirstpher Columbus, who sailed west in 1492 seeking India’s spices but found the Americas instead, bringing back chilli peppers, which he assumed were black pepper. Then there is Ferdinand Magellan’s 1519-1522 voyage, which also set out to find spices and returned with valuable cloves that funded the entire expedition.
The 16th and 17th centuries saw black pepper transform from a luxury item controlled by successive monopolies into a more accessible commodity, as competing European colonial powers of Portugal, Spain, the Dutch Republic, and Britain established pepper plantations across their tropical territories in Southeast Asia.
The Dutch East India Company, or the Verenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC), founded in 1602, and the British East India Company, founded in 1600, were both substantially motivated by the spice trade, and both wielded enormous political and military power in pursuit of pepper supply chains.
Dutch cultivation of pepper in the East Indies (modern Indonesia) and British expansion across India's Malabar Coast gradually increased supply, driving down prices and opening up black pepper to ordinary consumers across Europe for the first time. By the 18th and 19th centuries, maritime trade advancements and improved agricultural production also made black pepper easy to afford for the average person.
The ‘King of Spices’, black pepper, drove the rabid rally of the Age of Exploration with European powers colonising India and many tropical countries for their spices. Black pepper benefits more than cooking; it's used for preservation, medicine and also beauty. With such a history behind it, black pepper can even put the Queens of their peak era to shame, with the demand that drove colonial powers to colonise countries and seek it.
A: Black pepper contains piperine, aiding digestion, enhancing nutrient absorption, providing antioxidants, supporting metabolism, and potentially improving brain function and reducing inflammation.