As people grow, move cities, and work takes centre stage, festivals like Easter become a way to pause, reconnect with family and friends, and revive the rituals that defined childhood. Many times, these festive celebrations are the last link to community and culture, and people take special care to keep the traditions alive. For the Nasranis of Kerala, this translates to specific rituals and delicacies during Easter. Read ahead to understand.
Chocolate eggs have become synonymous with Easter celebrations globally, but the festival has a long, varied history; eggs are a modern-day trend, but certain rituals or key celebratory dates have continued for generations. For example, long before the “Easter bunny” comes knocking, many communities observe Lent – 40 days of fasting and reflection starting on Ash Wednesday, leading up to Holy Week, which honours Jesus’ final days. Easter is the joyous celebration of Jesus Christ’s resurrection from the dead. But before that comes Maundy Thursday. And for Nasranis of Kerala, the day has a very specific culinary identity.
According to Christianity, Jesus Christ was crucified (theologically, for humanity’s sins), but resurrected three days later. The day of resurrection marks Easter. However, a day before the crucifixion was the Last Supper of Jesus Christ with his apostles. Today, Maundy Thursday honours this day. It includes specific rituals (such as washing feet and sharing bread) that honour and highlight Jesus Christ’s humility and sacrificial love.
The Nasranis of Kerala, also known as the Saint Thomas Christians, are one of the oldest Christian communities in the world, founded by St. Thomas the Apostle in 52 AD in the Malabar region. St. Thomas was one of the original Twelve Apostles chosen by Jesus. Known for doubting Jesus' resurrection until seeing the wounds, he later proclaimed his faith and is recognised as a saint for his martyrdom in India.
Their culture indicates their history, and the influence of local traditions, blending into a distinct mix of Indian (especially Hindu), Jewish, and East/West Syriac Christian influences. Historically, they were a community of traders and warriors.
Like Easter, certain Maundy Thursday rituals are common to Christians across the globe. However, Pesaha is a celebration unique to Nasranis of Kerala, states the Nasrani Foundation. The day is a public holiday in Kerala and marks the beginning of the end of the fasting and abstinence period of Lent.
But what does the meal include, and what rituals are followed?
Pesaha appam: This is an unleavened, steamed bread made, also known as Kurisappam (cross bread), because it includes a cross. It’s important to cook the appam without fermentation, i.e., cook it immediately after preparing the mix/batter.
There is a more rustic version of the appam, which is prepared in mud pots and baked or roasted (not steamed). It’s called kalathappam. Kalam means mud pot.
Here are the recipes you can follow to make pesaha appam and paal:
Pesaha Appam: Ingredients
Pesaha Appam: Method
Pesaha Paal: Ingredients
Pesaha Paal: Method
The Pesaha Meal (also known as Pesaha Vyazham, literally translating to Passover Thursday) shares several similarities with the Jewish Passover meal, though it’s a much lighter fare in comparison:
These meals and traditions have continued for years, becoming a living museum of ancient history. With every shared meal, the new generation gets a deeper glimpse into the stories, myths, histories, and traditions that shaped the world they came into. And of course, it keeps good food alive!