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The harsh winter winds make your blankets, heaters, and warm beds feel like a blessing. And yet, every year in January, Punjab (and a few other regions in North India) collectively steps out to light a bonfire in the evening, and dance around it, singing folk songs, passing sweet treats, and partaking in a festive celebration. Why? Because it’s the time of Lohri!
The Indian harvest festival, like any other Indian celebration, would be incomplete without a feast. While most regions celebrate the harvest on Makar Sakranti, Punjab, parts of Jammu, Haryana, and Himachal Pradesh also celebrate Lohri on the day preceding Makar Sakranti. It’s a time to brush up on folk songs (and even a few Bollywood numbers!), and arrange a platter of fresh popcorn, gajak, and rewari to offer into a roaring bonfire, as well as share with friends and family. And that’s not all there is to the grand Lohri feast.
One of the most striking aspects of the Lohri celebration is the bonfire. Families and neighbourhoods gather around a communal bonfire, passing sweets, singing songs, and even performing traditional Punjabi dances like gidda and bhangra. The bonfire was supposed to symbolise the return of longer days. People usually circle the bonfire, singing songs, and sharing sweets among each other. These sweets are usually made from gud (jaggery), derived from sugarcane, one of Punjab’s main harvests. Sweet treats made from sesame seeds and nuts, and corn-based snacks (like popcorn) may also be consumed. The festival also takes on additional importance for families with newlyweds or newborns.
The people of Jammu also participate in the Hiran dance and chajja-making during the festival. Chajja is a peacock replica, usually prepared by children and carried from one house to another. People also prepare and wear special garlands made from nuts, dry fruits, and even candies.
While largely considered a festival celebrating the passing of the winter solstice and the arrival of longer, warmer days, there is another tale associated with the origin of Lohri. It’s the one that is described in the famous folk song Sundri Mundri, sung during Lohri. Traditionally, young children visit different houses, singing the song Sundri Mundri, and asking for snacks, sweets, money, or gifts.
As per the tale, Dulha Bhatti was a local Punjabi hero, akin to Robin Hood. He saved girls from being abducted or forced into marriages, and Sundri and Mundri were two of the many girls he saved. The song celebrates him as a saviour.
The Lohri festival celebrates winter produce and harvest, with different dishes made from mustard greens, sugarcane products, root vegetables like radishes, and more. Here’s what a traditional feast may include:
First and foremost are the snacks offered into the bonfire. Attendees grab fistfuls of these snacks and throw them into the bonfire, celebrating a bountiful harvest. Popcorn, puffed rice, peanuts, sesame seeds and gud are commonly used. Instead of using sesame and gud/jaggery as is, desserts made from the two may also be included. Rewari, for example, is a popular bonfire offering.
Sarson Ka Saage-Makki Roti: Sarson ka saag is a rich, green-hued gravy made from mustard greens, which are the freshest in winter. It’s served with a thick, crisp flatbread made from maize flour. Hot butter and pickle are often served on the side. Not just at Lohri, this is a combination you can find across Punjabi homes throughout the winter season.
Pindi Chole: While chickpeas are consumed year-round, pindi chole is a special Amritsari-style preparation. Here, the use of tea-leaves water and the addition of spices like anardana (dried pomegranate seeds), amchur (dried mango powder) and kasuri methi (dried, fenugreek leaves) lend a tangy, spicy taste to the dish that separates it from other chickpea preparations.
Gud Ki Roti/Paratha: Slightly thick and sweet flatbreads made from a dough sweetened by jaggery powder (or syrup), Gud ki roti is a treat that travels well. It usually includes fennel seeds in the mix, which lend an unmistakable aroma to the dish. And is cooked with copious amounts of ghee, that make it a warming winter treat.
Snacks from seasonal greens: Fritters or tikkies made from seasonal produce are often served as part of the Lohri feast as well. For example, fried patties of corn and spinach.
Gajak: A crunchy brittle made from sesame seeds and jaggery syrup, gajak is literally considered the “winter dessert”. Instead of brittle, sesame seed and jaggery balls may also be shared. These are called til ladoos.
Rewari: Rewari is a type of Indian candy made from the same ingredients as that of Gajak, i.e. sesame seeds and a hardened syrup of jaggery. Commercial production may use sugar instead of jaggery. It’s a lot smaller than a gajak and has a disc-like or flat, circular shape, which makes it easier to carry and throw into the bonfire.
Mungfali ki chikki: Chikki is another word for bar or brittle, depending on the thickness of the dish. This particular version uses peanuts instead of sesame seeds. It’s yet another treat that is easy to transport since it keeps fresh for days, even without refrigeration.
Gajar ka Halwa: Gajar ka halwa is a classic, winter treat made from freshly grated vegetables. Even though cooking gajar ka halwa is a time-consuming and labour-intensive process, many homes still indulge. Because not only is it a delectable treat, but it’s also extremely seasonal. The type of carrot required to make it is only available during the winter season.
Lohri honours the community, harvest, and the changing of seasons. As a festival, it perfectly encapsulates the hearty meals that make everyone fall in love with Punjabi food. From the savoury snacks and classic mains to sweet treats, let the joy of food double the fun of Lohri.