Think of Bengali fish curry as the vintage vinyl record – classic, soulful, and packed with rich, layered flavours that never go out of style. Meanwhile, Goan fish curry is the vibrant street carnival – colourful, and bursting with character that wakes up your palate like a high-energy dance track. Both dishes have cult followings, with mustard gravies facing off with coconut gravies. Indulge in this blog to find out more.
This is no warzone, and comparing different cooking styles and salt water versus fresh water fish or a mix of both will exactly lead to that. You be the judge of what is best after reading this in-depth profiling of the East versus West fish curries. Bengal’s fish curries make ample use of the widely cultivated mustard in the state in the form of cooking oil and also paste. Goa uses dried spices like dried red chillies and coconut, and a blend of local spices and Portuguese favourites (chilli peppers, ginger, garlic, and vinegar). Here’s a run-through of each region’s fish curries.
Bengali fish curry, or ‘maacher jhol’, is cooked in the ubiquitous mustard oil common to the region with turmeric-coated fish and onions, sometimes garlic, ginger and fresh green chillies. The fish curry in the east uses riverine catches of rohu, katla and papda. Traditionally, macher jhol, no matter the fish or the preparation, is served with steamed white rice, making it a comforting and wholesome meal.
The ascerbic mustard oil is what forms the base of fish curries, with special seasonal catches like hilsha (ilish) cooked in mustard oil and mustard paste being the highlight of many menus. Catches from the Bay, like bhetki and pomfret, are also relished across the state. Fish curry here is a reflection of Bengal's agrarian lifestyle and its close ties to rivers and lakes, where fishing is both a livelihood and a cultural heritage.
Goan fish curry, on the other hand, uses mostly saltwater fish; primarily because it faces the Arabian Sea. Locally, fish curry is called ‘xit codi’, which pairs fresh fish preparations with steaming white rice. Most fish curries are made with freshly ground spices (dried red chillies, coriander seeds, kokum, tamarind, cumin), coconut, and tamarind, simmered to create a rich, tangy, and mildly spicy gravy.
The fish range from pomfret, kingfish, or mackerel, caught fresh from the Arabian Sea. Usually, coconut oil, owing to the coconut plantations in the region, imparts a distinctive aroma that defines Goan cuisine. Goa has Portuguese influences, so sometimes, vinegar might be added. Goan fish curry reflects the region’s multicultural heritage, combining Indian genius with European culinary techniques.
Bengali fish preparation usually involves a quick marination of fish with turmeric and salt. It’s then shallow-fried before being simmered in a jeera-flavoured or mustard-based gravy. The use of mustard oil is essential, imparting the trademark aroma and flavour.
Goan fish curry, on the other hand, involves grinding fresh coconut with spices to create a rich reddish paste, which is then sautéed with onions and tomatoes. The curry is simmered to allow the flavours to bloom, with fish added towards the end to prevent overcooking.
The choice between freshwater and saltwater fish in these regional cuisines underscores the diverse dishes that pop up in different regions of India. All of which is shaped by geography, culture, and locally available resources.
Bengal is riddled with rivers and wetlands, and is also near the Bay of Bengal, so it has a diverse array of freshwater fish and saltwater fish. Rohu (Labeo rohita), a silver-colored carp, is prized for its mild taste and tender flesh, making it a staple. Katla (Catla catla), another large carp, offers a slightly firmer texture is second best. Hilsa (Ilish) is the crown jewel and a seasonal delicacy, renowned for its rich, oily flesh and distinctive flavour. Other fish that have a distinctive taste and are quite loved are magur, pomfret, papda and chitol, a freshwater catfish.
Goa's coastal waters provide a bounty of saltwater fish that are central to its culinary traditions. Pomfret, with its delicate, flaky white flesh, is a favourite in Goan kitchens, often featured in curries and fries. Kingfish (surmai), known for its meaty texture and rich flavour, is commonly used in xit codi (Goan fish curry) and is also enjoyed grilled or fried. Mackerel (Bangda), a small, oily fish, is also quite cherished for its strong flavour and is frequently prepared in spicy, tangy curries.
Both Bengali and Goan fish curries represent the best of India’s coastal culinary heritage. Whether you favour the pungent, mustard-flavoured delicacy of Bengal or the rich, tangy, coconut-infused depth of Goa, each curry tells a story of its people, geography, and history. The face-off isn’t about choosing a winner but appreciating the diversity of Indian coastal cooking.