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Copyright © 2025 Foodies Only
Copyright © 2025 Foodies Only
7 min
01/10/2025
Dussehra in Gujarat rakes in crores of money in a single day – this is only for a classic combination tied to its mornings. This figure is only for Ahmedabad alone, spent on fafda and jalebi, during Dussehra 2023. Behind these numbers lies a century-old tradition that’s equal parts food ritual, an economic hit, and cultural celebration – all centred around a humble snack combo.
While Gujratis have their kadhis, theplas, and dhoklas, with the smell of mustard, curry leaves, and methi (fenugreek leaves) wafting in random street corners and homes, for Dussehrah, it's a different affair. Every year on Dussehra morning, as cities across India awaken to the final day of Navratri, in Gujarat, it’s a time to relish the sweet and salty jalebi and fafda combination. This combination is their unique Dussehra ritual. But why this combo, and why only on Dussehra?
Fafda is like papad and made from besan or gram flour, salt, turmeric and carom seeds. The dough of the fafda is rolled into strips and deep‑fried until crisp. Whereas jalebi is made from a batter (usually of refined flour) that is runny and pushed through a bag with a fitted tip. The fried jalebi might be made more orange by adding an edible dye, then soaked in sugar syrup. Fafda is often served hot with raw papaya salad (sambharo), chutney, and fried chillies; jalebi is eaten warm, made with pure ghee.
Fafda and jalebi might be a classic combination, but when it comes to their history, they couldn’t be more different. Jalebi originated as ‘zalabiya’ in West Asia and was brought to India around the 13th century through Persian and Arabic influences. By the 15th century, it was mentioned in Indian texts like the Priyamkarnrpakatha as a popular sweet. Fafda, on the other hand, is native to Gujarat and part of its traditional farsan snacks, made with gram flour and spices. The pairing of jalebi and fafda became popular in Ahmedabad in the early 1900s, largely thanks to heritage eateries like Chandravilas, established in 1900, which began serving both together.
Over time, the pairing of fafda and jalebi became ritualised for Dussehra in Gujarat, tied to symbolism, custom, and food logic. Gram flour items like fafda are considered acceptable after a Navratri fast (which often restricts grains or certain foods), and the contrast of salty and sweet complements each other and is said to be easily digestible. As the local lore goes, some link it to legends of Rama (jalebi) and Hanuman (gram flour snacks). Jalebi (or shashkuli) was said to have been a favourite sweet of Lord Rama, and Hanuman was believed to have favoured gram‑flour snacks like fafda. Some say that Hanuman even prepared jalebis for Rama and paired them with gram‑flour crispies.
When it comes to the real deal behind popularising the fafda-jalebi pairing to cult status during Dussehra, is Chandravilas, a heritage eatery in Ahmedabad that dates back to 1900. It was started as a humble tea stall by Chimanlal Hemraj Joshi, and the establishment gradually expanded its offerings to include fafda around 1915 and jalebi shortly after. Over the decades, Chandravilas became a landmark for foodies, especially known for its early-morning crowds on Dussehra.
The demand for fafda and jalebi during Dussehra significantly boosts the local economy in Gujarat. Ahmedabad alone accounts for a massive sale of fafda and jalebi, for Dussehra 2023, which was estimated at ₹175 crore, with about 8.4 lakh kilograms of each item sold across more than 10,000 shops and stalls. Despite a 10% hike in prices – owing to rising costs of besan, oil, and fuel – demand still rose approximately 15% year‑on‑year. For smaller cities like Nadiad, sales also reflect a strong local impact – fafda‑jalebi transactions worth around ₹1.75 crore have been reported just for that one day.
While deeply rooted in Gujarat, the jalebi‑fafda Dussehra tradition travels with its people, in particular the Gujjus. Gujarati communities across India continue serving it during Vijayadashami, and shops outside Gujarat sometimes stock it seasonally. Some vendors experiment with flavour tweaks or light versions, but the classic pairing remains central. Online orders have also grown: during the COVID period, as much as 35-40 % of fafda‑jalebi sales in Ahmedabad happened online.
Fafda and jalebi on Dussehra may appear like a simple pairing of snack and sweet, but behind it lies a deep story of culture, commerce, and continuity. From mythological associations with Lord Hanuman and Lord Rama to the influence of local institutions like Chandravilas in Ahmedabad, the tradition has evolved into an unmissable ritual. It fuels local economies, keeps Gujjus content, and this also makes shopkeepers break a leg.
