Summer in the East seldom sees rain showers bring relief, and with that comes alternating hot and cold weather, which makes the body susceptible to coughs, colds, and fevers. So, when the humidity settles over the region like a suffocating blanket that one can’t seem to kick off, the summer food of Bengal adapts with seasonal produce. Five essential Bengali recipes define summers and what ends up on the Bengali plate from Boishakh through Ashadh.
Summer in Bengal, which arrives in a brutal form in late March and does not loosen its grip until the monsoon breaks in June, brings with it a distinct shift in everything from appetite to digestion to what the bazaar has on offer. Boishakhee storms roll in at night, and by morning the markets fill with heaped piles of raw mango, bunches of neem leaves, the first hilsa, freshly ground posto paste, and earthen handis of mishti doi.
Bengali recipes for summer are precisely tailored to keep the body cool during this hot season. The dishes tend to be light without being insubstantial, helping the body cool down without being cold, and have a sharpness to them, courtesy of the panch foron and mustard oil, to bring out the best of bland ingredients. So, here’s what's on the plate in summer in most Bengali homes.
There might be distinct Bengali dishes that spill over into the friendly fire wars of ghoti vs bangal recipes, but there are certain dishes that surpass and claim ownership of summer food, and, be it any sect, certain summer dishes are dominated by the following five.
Ask any Bengali what summer food means, and posto will be in the first sentence. Known as khus khus in Hindi, poppy seeds take on an entirely different identity in a Bengali recipe, not a garnish but a protagonist. White poppy seeds are soaked, ground to a smooth or coarse paste, and cooked into an enormous variety of preparations. The Bengali posto repertoire in summer includes:
Aloo posto, which features quartered potatoes cooked in a generous, creamy poppy seed paste with mustard oil and green chillies. It is consumed year-round, but is preferred in summer.
Posto bora refers to a patty or pakora made with a mix of poppy seed, onion and green chilli, shallow-fried in mustard oil.
Kancha posto baata is a rare delicacy eaten in some Bengali homes, made by crushing poppy seeds with a sil-noda (sil batta), then mixing them with mustard oil, salt, onion, and green chillies. It’s eaten with steamed rice.
Jhinge posto is a ridge gourd dish cooked with posto paste, which contains one or more green chillies pureed. It might also include a few potato pieces to balance the vegetal taste of the ridge gourd.
Posto diye macher jhol features the Bengali favourite, everyday fish like rohu or katla. The usual mustard oil is always present with the spices being lighter to let the poppy seeds’ flavour stand out.
‘Teto’ is a term that dominates summer, as digestion slows and the body struggles to cope with richer foods. So Bengali recipes in summer turn over a new leaf, and it is ritual to start a meal with a ‘teto’ or bitter dish. In Bengali homes, these range from:
Neem begun is a stir-fried dish featuring neem leaves and diced brinjals. It’s usually eaten, mashed with a little rice (to make it easier to eat), and then moved on to other side dishes.
Ucche aloo bhaja features bitter gourd (korola) with pieces of potato, stir-fried with a few spices in mustard oil. The bitterness is balanced by the potatoes.
Ucche dal, also called tetor dal, is a filling side dish made with fried bittergourd pieces in the typical dal preparation. Usually, yellow moong dal is used.
Shukto is a unique vegetable dish prepared like a stew and also features the Bengali favourite, posto (poppy seeds). It is eaten towards the beginning of the meal as a palate cleanser, as it contains bitter gourd. Other vegetables include drumsticks, potatoes, sweet potato, papaya, raw banana, and jhinge or ridge gourd.
Ucche seddo is also something that is eaten at the beginning of a Bengali meal, and is just a mash of boiled bitter gourd, sometimes with potatoes.
The riverine state of West Bengal has a fresh supply of both saltwater and freshwater fish, with locals preferring freshwater fish more. The Bengali relationship with fish is an emotional one and tied to the seasons. The summer brings certain fish to their peak, and Bengali recipes adjust accordingly. Here are some fish and their dishes:
Rohu (Rui) maach or fish is what you would find in a typical Bengali macher jhol or fish curry. It’s a large freshwater fish found in abundance in West Bengal. Some homes like to prepare it as a thin curry with cumin and turmeric. Some add seasonal vegetables like jhinge (ridge gourd) and potatoes. Some Bengali recipes might also feature posto (poppy seeds) or doi (curd).
Katla is a large freshwater carp from the same family as rohu, but katla has thick, fatty cuts that are particularly suited to richer Bengali preparations. Maacher kalia and the everyday paatla jhol are well suited to katla maach.
Parshe is a small, delicate saltwater fish with a subtle sweetness. It is typically cooked in a jhal preparation with brinjals, served in a mustard gravy, sometimes with curd, and garnished with brinjal and dal bori (dried lentil dumplings).
Pabda is arguably the most beloved small freshwater fish in Bengali cooking, belonging to the catfish family and having buttery-soft flesh and smooth, scaleless skin. It is cooked into a simple fish curry, kalo jeere bori jhol, with no onion, garlic, or tomato.
If there is a single flavour that defines Bengali summer food more than any other, it is the arresting sourness of kancha aam or raw green mango. Before the mangoes ripen and sweeten in May, they spend weeks hanging on the tree, and Bengalis make the best of kancha aam or raw mangoes. Some like to slice raw mangoes and eat them with salt, spices, and kasundi. As for the rest, kancha aam appears across the Bengali summer recipes in multiple forms:
Kancha aamer chutney is the perfect end to a Bengali meal, as it is a sweet-and-sour chutney. Raw mangoes are sliced into wedges and cooked with sugar, mustard seeds, and dry red chillies, which are then added to a panchphoron tadka. It replenishes the taste buds and helps the body cool.
Tok dal (aam dal) is a summer favourite Bengali recipe that is often prepared during the short raw mango season. The base remains the masoor (red) lentils with raw mango pieces, cooked in mustard oil.
Aam panna is a popular summer drink across India, but Bengal likes theirs with raw mangoes roasted over the stovetop. The mango pulp is then scraped out and turned into a drink with water, cumin, mint, black salt, and sometimes jaggery. It is a heat-stroke preventive and cooling drink.
Aam kasundi is a condiment made by mixing a mustard seed paste with pureed raw mangoes. It tastes amazing with telebhaja, fish fry and cutlets.
Kancha aamer achar is a raw mango pickle usually made during the rae mango season, between March and May, with plenty of mustard oil and a mix of whole and ground spices. The prepared mango achar is routinely exposed to the sun and gets better with time.
No Bengali meal is complete without some form of curd, and in summer, its role expands from a condiment to a cooling agent to a dessert to a digestive aid. In everyday summer Bengali cooking, plain doi or curd appears as a simple dish, a marinade for fish, and a key ingredient in a handful of gravies. The curd, or doi, is set in clay pots, along with mishti doi, a regional favourite made with caramelised sugar. Beyond mishti doi, the summer doi dishes include:
Doi maach, which is a simple preparation of fish, usually rui or katla, marinated in curd with turmeric and spices, then cooked in a mild gravy. The dairy balances the spices, making for a mouthwatering dish.
Doi chire is a wholesome, quick-to-fix comfort meal that often features banana or mango mashed into a bowl of washed chire (flattened rice) or poha, along with curd (doi). It is a great gut-health-boosting dish that is also cooling and often quick to digest.
Ghol, or plain chaas, is a Bengali recipe for a refreshing summer drink made by diluting beaten curd with water and salt. It is quite close to the North Indian chaas or South India's mor, and is drunk after meals as a digestive.
To end these five essentials of summer food in Bengal, one must mention the Bengali mishti, which is loved across seasons. With local favourites like sandesh, kheer kadam, rasmalai, and more, the same desserts today take on different forms with summer specials like daab (tender coconut), mango, lychee, and even luxurious chocolates like ITC Fabelle, creating fusion desserts that are a must-try for an indulgent end to a Bengali meal.
A: Yes. Poppy seeds contain fibre, calcium, magnesium, and healthy fats, which, when consumed in the right doses at the right time, may help in cooling down the body.